Nepal: Happiness Lives in Simplicity
Traveling fills a need to connect. A need to witness. A need to explore other truths. Every time I travel, my heart transforms, I’m constantly changing, reevaluating, rethinking. My perception shifts. I change how I connect to the world and to myself. I start to believe in magic again, and for some reason, I just stop and stare.
Sunrise at Sarangkot near Pokhara
Nepal fills me to the brim every time I get to experience the sacredness that lives there. This was my second time visiting this majestic country, and it did not disappoint.
One week in Nepal: Off the Beaten Path
From a financial standpoint, Nepal is one of the poorest countries in the world. With a little creativity, you can travel Nepal on a few dollars a day. With $20-$40 per day, you can travel in comfort and really support Nepal’s number one income earning industry, tourism. For me, it is worth saving up a few extra bucks to maybe pay asking price for those mala beads or walking around the Stupa and gifting 5 rupees (5 cents) to each soul there praying to receive abundance. Nepali people live life with open arms, it feels balanced for me to give when I can for their hospitality.
Flying into Nepal during the day can offer spectacular views of the Himalaya. HINT: Sit on the left side of the plane if flying from the middle east or India for the best views. It’s an amazing experience to look across at mountains from cruising altitude as oppose to looking down at them!
View from 30,000 ft
The airport in Nepal is very small. Try to print the visa application before your trip to save yourself from the mad dash to immigration. Also, have a couple passport photos on hand. They will ask you for one with your visa application. A little patience will need to be practiced when picking up your luggage. It’s a very slow process which I’m sure is being done by only one or two people. This is your first lesson in Nepal. Nepali time is very different than western time. One of the most common phrases in Nepal translates to “what to do?” :) Sit back, relax, and enjoy the lack of control and new rhythm of this laid back culture.
The first time I was in Kathmandu I stayed where most tourists land, in Thamel. Thamel is a buzzing area filled with great tourist shops and all the necessities for picking up any last minute trekking items. It’s a great place to meet people who are also there enjoying the magic of Nepal.
Kapan Monestary, Kathmandu
For a more local energy, head over to Boudha and stay in a guesthouse close to the Boudhanath Stupa. I am not a city person and tend to only stay in cities during transit, but this Stupa is the heartbeat of the Tibetan Buddhist community in Kathmandu and it filled my spiritual bucket full. Everyday at sunrise the community comes together to walk around the Stupa to pray, chant, and give their offerings. It is one of the most profound spiritual energies I have felt.
Lesson number 2: Take advantage of the jet lag and always get up for the sunrise. Whether you’re in the mountains or near Boudhanath Stupa, the sunrise is the best part of the day in Nepal.
Boudhanath Stupa, Kathmandu
For more info on Stupas and their significance, click on the link below.
https://www.shambhalamountain.org/great-stupa/history-of-stupas/
If you are coming to Nepal, Pokhara is a must see. A lot of people are lured by the famous Mt. Everest, but the trekking near there felt very touristy and rather anti climatic compared to the trekking around the Annapurnas. Pokhara is the hub to most of the trekking and breathtaking Himalayan views that Nepal is known for.
As a lunch stop on our way to Pokhara, we decided to venture to the small village of Bandipur. About 20 minutes of uphill switchbacks brought us to a parking area. There are no motorized vehicles allowed in Bandipur, so it requires a 5-10 min hike up to the village center. What started as a lunch stop, turned into one of my all time favorite places in Nepal. I wish I had planned more time in this quiet, picturesque village. Bandipur is a hidden gem! It’s like European and Tibetan culture came together to create Nepal’s best kept secret. The small stone streets and staircases are lined with flowering trees and Newari architecture. There are layered terraces, views that will knock your socks off, a silk farm, trekking, and baked goods that would rival any European bakery. Yes, please stop by The Himalayan Cafe and see Jerry, the baker extraordinaire. The brownies, lemon shortcake, and 6 star services will leave you smiling for the rest of your trip. Bandipur’s slogan is “where heaven meets” and it is truly the place where reality and fantasy dance on the mountaintops.
Bandipur
After lunch we left Bandipur dragging our feet and continued our journey to Pokhara. Kathmandu to Pokhara can be anywhere from 5-8 hours depending on traffic and if there are any accidents. The 1 and a half lane road can get clogged up pretty easily. Beware if you get carsick you might want to bring some ginger chews or dramamine. A bus ride from Kathmandu to Pokhara will cost you around $8 and they make plenty of stops for food and bathroom breaks.
Pokhara is a scene from a postcard. The beautiful city spreads in a valley surrounded by the beautiful Annapurna range. There is a lake in the center with fun colorful boats you can rent and paddle around in. Again, early mornings are best for both the view of mountains and the glasslike water perfect for boat riding. Clouds and rain tend to creep in as the day goes on. For a splurge stay in The White Pearl Hotel on lakeside. This hotel will cost you $40-$50 per night and is one of the nicest hotels I have ever stayed in while abroad. I didn’t even know places like this existed in Nepal. Sometimes you just need a reliable hot shower, wifi connection, comfy mattress and breakfast buffet to pull you through after trekking or bumpy road travel. I highly recommend this place.
Pokhara
Another must do while in Pokhara is experiencing sunrise at Sarangkot. This is the best bang for your buck without trekking. It’s an early wake up call, but a taxi will pick you up at your hotel and drive you to the top of the lookout area. A short hike up some stairs will give you absolutely breathtaking views of Fishtail and the Annapurnas. Sit and let their massive size take you over. These mountains will give you a different perspective on gratitude, respect and magic. This is Nepal.
Sunrise from Sarangkot
If you’re sticking around Pokhara for a couple days I would recommend getting a massage or facial ($10-$20) or for the more adventurous, paragliding ($60 which includes photographer and transport). Make sure you take a hike up to the World Peace Pagoda and rent a boat early in the morning for a paddle around the lake. I saw some pretty amazing yoga studios hosting retreats, but I didn’t experience them myself.
Nepal is known for its amazing trekking. The most spectacular places in Nepal you just cant get to by car. If you are not in a time crunch and have a couple extra weeks, hike the Annapurna Circuit and up to ABC (Annapurna Base Camp). I am still having trouble putting words to the magic I witnessed in those mountains. It is hands down the most amazing experience I have had on any of my travels. If you only have a couple days, I would suggest either going to Poon Hill or Ghandruk (or both!). This trip I went to Ghandruk and it proved to be the best bang for my buck. You get to experience a little trekking, traditional Nepali mountain living, and a sunrise to die for that you don't have to share with 100 of your closest tourists friends. You’ll need to get a permit in Pokhara and you can do this at any tourist office. They will also be able to give you info on how to get to the trailhead. You can choose to take a bus or private jeep taxi depending on your budget and level of comfort on bumpy roads. HINT: If you get car sick easily, I would suggest bringing dramamine with you on every vehicle trip in Nepal. Even in the city.
Ghandrunk
It’s nearly impossible to leave Nepal feeling like the same person. This country touches a place in your heart that you can’t quite explain. I always leave with this whisper in my heart “happiness lives in simplicity”. Nepal may be one of the poorest countries in the world, but it is rich in happiness and rich in magic. Go to Nepal with an open heart. Try not to look at the people for what they don't have, but for what they are abundant in: smiles, happiness, love, gratitude, pride, craftsmanship, curiosity. These are the lessons Nepal will give you. Return the smiles, and always say NAMASTE.
